Hello again....

As we write, CNN is busily covering the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.  Of course, since you're receiving this letter, you must know we're all right.  We have been cautioned by the US embassy to keep a low profile, avoid large groups, avoid the problem areas where demonstrations have been taking place.  Maadi has even been affected - there was a run on a grocery store (Sainsbury's) that was rumored to have Jewish owners.  We have never seen anything yet, but it's very interesting to hear on CNN that there was another demonstration in Cairo.  They mostly take place at the Egyptian universities.  After the attack on the US Destroyer in Yemen, many teachers who were planning to visit Mt. Sinai this weekend have cancelled.

The effect all this has on the students is varied.  The younger children don't seem to be affected; however, as young as sixth grade some teachers are seeing strong emotions.  One of the art teachers asked her students to draw a symbol of love.  A student responded, "Can I draw a picture of an Israeli flag burning?"  In the high school, there were anti-Israeli posters on the walls early on that were taken down and graffiti in the bathrooms.  An announcement was even made over the public address system at school encouraging students to voice their opinions in ways more constructive than bathroom graffiti. There have been assemblies to discuss the conflict and the proper reaction for our students every few days.  Many high school teachers have displayed student posters and poetry promoting peace.  But as the situation gets more tense, we don't know how the students will feel.  The Arabic media is very inflammatory, and one-sided.  We are glad we see a more balanced viewpoint on CNN.

Earlier this month we went to Coptic Cairo.  The Mar Girgis (Saint George) metro stop is right out front, and so we had a very inexpensive ride there -- about 35 cents for the two of us. The metro stop lands you almost directly in front of an old Roman wall, and about 100 meters or so from the entrance to the Church of Saint George. A large bas relief image of the saint slaying the dragon can be seen on the side of the church, which is at the top of a set of stairs from the entrance gate & adjoining courtyard. The church itself is similar to many Greek Orthodox churches, with icons and Christian symbolism at every turn. The stained glass windows, benches and votive candles all added to the mystique. The church is still used for worship services. Not far distant is the Hanging Church, which Todd visited with his class last year, but which we decided to skip. Instead, we traveled the opposite direction toward the nunnery of Saint George, which is located in a submerged section of the community. A long corridor leads one underneath the walled courtyard of Saint George's church to various other attractions -- the first of which is the nunnery. The nuns here keep two small gardens, with some flowers and shrubs that provide a delightful meditative respite. Inside the nunnery is a small chapel open to the public. No shoes can be worn here, so we had to take ours off. The chapel is decorated with icons and stories of Saint George, and his alleged aid on behalf of the faithful. There is even a chain, with a neck-shackle attached which is alleged to be the same one the saint touched as he was tortured those many years ago. The relic is said to have since healed many of various ailments. A small shrine for venerating the saint also stands here. After leaving the nunnery, and spending money looking through a gift shop, we headed on to the church of Saint Sergius. This church was built on the alleged spot where Jesus Christ sought refuge from Herod. There is a fenced-off area attached to the church that descends into a lower chamber, where tradition states Joseph and Mary hid Jesus. The church's sanctuary is large, and beautiful. For those that appreciate art, the inlaid wood and bone on the walls of the church sanctuary are amazingly intricate. No photographs could be taken inside the church, so you will have to use your imagination a bit. The inlay was of Coptic crosses in bone, with knot-work and scroll-work around them in various shades of dark wood. The pews had similar artistic carvings, though not as intricate. There were two different tapestries at the front of the sanctuary of Mary with Jesus, which we saw kissed, caressed and honored by some of the church's visitors. Our next stop was the church of Saint Barbara -- which seemed appropriate enough. It was smaller than Saint Sergius, and darker. Two tapestries of the saint adorned the sanctuary's front, with a small confessional and altar off to the side. Once again, photographs were not permitted. Our next wandering led us around a few corners to the old Ben Ezra synagogue. If any place of worship impressed us the most, it was probably this one. Of course, no photos, but the place was the most beautiful of all.  The walls were made of wood, within which were inlaid with Hebrew texts in Mother of Pearl. The wood inlaid walls were also judiciously covered with the Star of David. The synagogue was brightened by windows, and was extremely spacious. Strangely enough, the "submerged corridor" we traveled through brought us close to street level, but construction and restoration projects by the government hindered us from exiting that way. On our way back, we noticed a man giving religious tattoos to adults and children both, and a number of hawkers, hoping to cash in on the religious fervency of the visitors. Even a few beggars -- one of which Todd helped with a few pounds -- were sitting close to the corridor's entrance. Our final stop was the Coptic Museum, which housed quite a number of ancient items related to, or found in, this enclave. Among the items: musical instruments, weaponry, Coptic text and artwork -- some of which had magical incantations or depictions in the Coptic lettering, and a portion of the Gospel of Thomas -- a Gnostic text written in the Coptic script considered heretical and found at Nag Hamadi. Most of the items we saw dated from the seventh to the fifteenth centuries, though large jars (still intact) for carrying wheat and water were dated to the era of the Romans. Of the items we saw from the early Christian period was a headstone that depicted the ancient Egyptian symbols of ascension (stairs) leading to a cross/ankh.

Some sad news - our new preacher and his wife are leaving Cairo.  They were very unhappy it seems, which happens a lot here.  They have nowhere to go in England, so they have been transferred to Port Said, Egypt.  I don't know that it will be any different for them, but it will be a change.  The vestry committee will be looking again I guess. For us, the news compounded a weekend of sadness for us. We had learned the evening before of the untimely death of a cousin -- Ronald Mark Thomas. Ron, who lived in Boerne, Texas, with his wife and kids was the adopted son of Hilton & Mary Thomas. He died after the vehicle in which he was driving had a tire blow-out. The car apparently flipped in such a way that he was instantly killed. We haven't known Ron & Debbie for long; we had gotten to meet him and share our lives with him the summer before we left for Cairo. Yet we grieve, with our hearts and prayers continuing to be with the family -- close and extended -- during this time. 

This month our job search has started in earnest.  We have registered with a recruiter, and two information services.  So far, there have been possibilities in Korea and Japan for 2001-2002.  We are looking to the Far East for the next job, when our contract ends here.  Barbara is a huge Japan-ophile - she has been studying Japanese for over a year, adores sushi, is becoming an avid anime (Japanese animation) fan, etc.  We have our fingers crossed for interviews with the schools we want.

If you know the Thomases, singing is in the blood. So, it didn't take much to get us to join the Maadi Community Choir. We are gearing up for the Christmas season with Saint Saens' Christmas Oratorio, which is fun, difficult, fun, dissonant and fun. Beyond that, we are singing a Kodaly (that's ko-DYE for those who have trouble pronouncing eastern European names) piece, and others which we haven't yet learned. Todd, who is a tenor, got to meet a fellow tenor who also teaches third grade -- but at Cairo American College (CAC, located in Maadi, is the other American school here). Interesting as that was, it was more amazing to find out that his wife taught elementary music as well. What are the chances? Anyway, with all this goodness and frivolity, we hope to make the Christmas season bright. There is ONE problem though: There are too many Barbaras in the choir!  

Love you all!

Barbara and Todd

Pictures:

Every day, we catch our bus to school in front of this fountain.  Unfortunately, it's only on during the weekends.  The round traffic circles are called "midans" - this is Midan Degla, the closest to our apartment.

The metro at Mar Girgis. The metro is the cheap but crowded way to get to most of downtown Cairo.

The frieze (and Barbara) in front of the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George.  St. George is depicted slaying the dragon.  He is a patron saint of Coptic Christianity as well.  Every student at our school named George is Christian.

These crosses are like the ones inlaid with bone in the Church of St. Sergius.

A very old Christian painting of Coptic design.

A metal Coptic Cross in the Coptic Museum.  Many small Coptic crosses make a large one.